Guides
How to choose the right linen for a summer collection
By Sabri Karataş · · 6 min read
Weight, weave and finish change everything about how linen feels and drapes. A practical guide from our weaving floor.
Linen is one of the oldest textiles in the world, yet it is often misunderstood. Two fabrics both labelled “100% linen” can feel completely different in the hand. The difference lies in three decisions: weight, weave and finish.
1. Start with weight
Lightweight linens between 120 and 160 gsm suit shirting and flowing dresses. Mid-weights from 170 to 220 gsm are the most versatile — structured enough for trousers, light enough for summer. Anything above 250 gsm moves into jackets, upholstery and home goods.
2. Choose a weave
- Plain weave — crisp, breathable and the classic linen look.
- Twill — softer drape, fewer wrinkles, slightly heavier hand.
- Herringbone — texture and structure for tailoring.
3. Finish defines the feel
A stone-wash or enzyme finish breaks down the stiffness of raw flax and creates that lived-in softness people love. Ask your mill for a washed and an unwashed sample side by side — the difference is striking.
“A good linen should feel as honest in ten years as it does on the first day.”